Kaisar Ahmad Malla
“Walsa Baab Soebun Gasow”. This familiar phrase has echoed through the lanes of Rathsun Magam for generations. It is more than just an invitation, it is a call to peace, faith and nature. Perched atop the serene Daresh Hill, the shrine of Baba Hanief-u-din Reshi has been a place of solace for the spiritual and a haven of beauty for all who visit.
Baba Hanief-u-din Reshi, lovingly called Baab Sob by locals, was a devoted disciple of Hazrat Zain Ud Din Wali of Ashmuqam, himself a disciple of the revered Sheikh Noor Ud Din Noorani (RA).Following the guidance of his spiritual master, Baab Sob made his way to the gentle heights of Rathsun Magam, settling on a hillock known locally as Daresh. There, he immersed himself in deep religious reflection, seeking closeness to the Divine. His presence transformed the hill into a place of blessings and his shrine today remains a beacon for those in search of spiritual comfort.
Daresh Hill, crowned with the shrine of Baab Soab, is well connected by road from Budgam via Radbugh, from Beerwah through Chewdara and Ohangam and from Magam along the Radbugh–Makhama road. The main Budgam–Beerwah road gracefully curves along its slope, passing through Rathsun and offering visitors a scenic approach. Just 25 km from Srinagar,45 km from Baramulla and a mere 5 km each from Magam and Beerwah, the shrine is within easy reach for all.
The charm of Daresh lies not only in its spiritual aura but in its breathtaking panorama. From the top, one can witness a sweeping view that stretches far and wide, Srinagar in the east, Baramulla and Bandipora in the distance, Gulmarg’s Hills, the rolling beauty of Tosamaidan and Doodhpathri and even the mighty Karakoram range standing in silent majesty. Beneath the hill lie picturesque villages, cradled like gems in the green lap of Daresh.
Every season paints the hill in a new mood. In spring, the slopes wear a fresh green cloak, dotted with wildflowers that sway in the breeze like nature’s own prayer flags. The air smells of earth waking up and the pine saplings shimmer under the soft sunlight. In summer, the hill becomes a refuge from the heat, its breeze carrying the scent of deodar and coolness from the higher mountains. Families seek shade under tall Himalayan pines and children run barefoot in the grass while elders watch the faraway snow still resting on the peaks. Autumn wraps Daresh in gold and amber, as leaves rustle underfoot and the sky turns a deeper, richer blue. The setting sun spills molten light over the valley, making the shrine glow against the evening air. And then comes winter, when snow crowns the hill in silence. The shrine stands in a white embrace, and the world seems to pause, its peace deeper, its beauty sharper.
For many of us, Daresh Hill is woven into the fabric of our earliest memories. School picnics would bring us here in the summer, the cool breeze wiping away the heat, the laughter of friends mingling with the songs of birds. Even today, families continue to gather here, spreading picnic mats, sipping tea in the fresh air and watching the horizon melt into shades of gold at sunset.
It is also a hill of new beginnings. When someone gets married, it is a cherished tradition for the couple to visit Baab Soubun. They come not merely to see the shrine, but to feel the quiet strength of the place and to let the first days of their new life be touched by its peace. As they stand on the hill, the world spreads out beneath them, villages, meadows, forests and distant mountains, all wrapped in a silence that speaks more than words ever could. The wind moves softly between them, as if carrying their hopes across the valleys below. They pause for a moment, letting the view sink into their hearts, a reminder that life, like the mountains around them, will have both gentle slopes and steep climbs but with faith, patience and kindness, every path becomes more bearable.
Thanks to the efforts of local social activist Riffat Abdullah, Daresh Hill has been transformed into an oxygen-rich green zone. His plantation drive has introduced Himalayan blue pine (Kaayir),Himalayan cedar (deodar) and Himalayan silver fir (budul) to the slopes. These trees not only beautify the hill but also enrich its environment, ensuring that Baab Soubun’s resting place remains a sanctuary of both spiritual and ecological well-being.
Baab Soubun is not just a shrine, it is a living symbol of harmony between faith and nature. Pilgrims come seeking peace, the devout come for reflection, couples come for a blessed start to their journey together and the young come for the pure joy of feeling the wind on their faces and the world at their feet. Here, the sacred and the scenic blend seamlessly, a reminder that spirituality is not only in remembrance of God but also in the quiet appreciation of His creation.
As you stand at the top of Daresh Hill, the cold breeze brushing past your cheeks, the valleys stretching endlessly before you and the shrine of Baab Soubun resting in tranquil grace, you feel a certain lightness as though for a moment, the weight of life’s worries has been lifted.
And so, the old phrase still holds true; “Walsa Baab Soebun Gasow” Let us go to Baab Soubun. Not just to climb a hill, but to rise in spirit.
(The author is a health worker and can be reached at [email protected])
