Mukhtar Ahmad Qureshi
History of Kashmiri Wazwan
Kashmiri Wazwan is an iconic delicious tradition which has its roots very deeply buried in the soil of Kashmir’s cultural and historical heritage. The roots of Wazwan go back to as far as the 14th century when the Turco Mongol conqueror Timur invaded India. He was accompanied by his army that carried with themselves master chefs from Samarkand. These Central Asian chefs brought their style of cooking to this land and from here came up with the dish that today is called Wazwan.
Time passed, and Wazwan became a menu, not just a meal. This culinary delight became a testament of the pride of people of the land, an emblem of the Kashmiris’ generosity and artistry. Wazwan is normally served at wedding ceremonies, religious rituals, and other important cultural ceremonies in Kashmir. Wazwan is a banquet prepared in courses which can vary from seven to thirty six courses, though the most usual amount of courses practiced today is 36 course Wazwan. The Wazas or the chefs, are a form of respectfully held personality since their culinary skills have been passed along with the generations. Every dish takes several hours of work and delicate craftsmanship. It is not just food alone but reflects Kashmir’s glorious history of splendorous Central Asia, Persia, and Mughal India.
Wazwan in Kashmiri culture
Wazwan is the heart and soul of Kashmiri hospitality and social mores. It is no more a meal it is a social ritual, community, togetherness, and a celebration. It is not only in flavours but with the way it’s prepared and consumed that one finds importance in Wazwan.
Traditionally, the Wazwan has been served in a huge copper platter known as a “Tram” wherein groups of four eat together. This corporate nature of eating reveals the closeness and intimacy within the Kashmiri community in forming a mutual respect and union with them. According to some, the core elements of the Kashmiri culture can be seen through the eaters sitting around the same bigger platter. From the legendary Rogan Josh based curry to extremely minced Gushtaba a meatball dish in yogurt gravy-every dish carries symbolic values and is associated with specific moments of life or forms of celebration.
Their role is absolutely crucial in preparing a Wazwan. These cooks are nothing but custodians of culture because the knowledge of spices and ingredients, as well as techniques, has developed generation after generation. A Waza is held in high esteem by Kashmiri society; what he does is not merely a case of cooking but an art reflected after centuries of culinary evolution.
However, in the last couple of years, a rather unfortunate trend has come into play, particularly during big events such as weddings, the waste of food. Because of grandeur and overindulgence of the feast, enormous amounts of Wazwan are largely unused and then discarded as waste. That not only breeds food waste but also loses the cultural value of reverence and respect towards food. Many social commentators have denounced this, insisting that families should be more sensitive to portion sizes and responsible consumption of food. However, Wazwan is still important regarding its great cultural significance in the continuance of Kashmiri hospitality.
Modernization in varieties and traditions
Kashmiri Wazwan in the present world has undergone changes to a great extent. Modernization, globalization, and dietetic needs have shaped this ancient feast in the form of a hybrid cuisine. The heart core of Wazwan remains unchanged, however, the chefs try new tastes, techniques, and presentations sometimes
Yet an important feature in the modernization process is incorporating healthier and more diversified dishes. Traditional Wazwan is heavy and rich it is just full of meat and fats, spices, and a bit not to the taste of modern diets for consumption. Today, light variations of traditional Wazwan are produced and dispersed by chefs in which oil is reduced as much as possible while heavy animal fats are replaced with better alternatives. It features extremely popular vegetarian and even vegan variations of Rogan Josh and Gushtaba, normally to satisfy the hunger of those who like plant based diets best. There is something rejuvenating about dishes such as Paneer, Rogan Josh or Tofu Gushtaba, recreating traditional recipes with a distinct tone, modern style.
A more perfect intermingling of Wazwan with other cuisines. Kashmiri chefs and restaurant owners are already experimenting with international flavours and presentation styles. For instance, a Wazwan inspired fusion dish found in high-end restaurants all over the world, where traditional Kashmiri spices are innovatively combined with global ingredients such as truffle oil or seafood, creating a hybrid yet gourmet experience.
The excesses and formalities in Wazwan
Although Wazwan is a treasured cultural heritage, many modern excesses have added practices that did not form any part of the original feast. One such practice is that of the elaborate formalities associated with the dry fruits and sweets being served to the groom and his family in the weddings in Kashmir. This tradition, whereas originally meant to be a gesture of respect for the guests has today evolved into a status symbol, and families often compete with each other to outshine one another by offering the finest gifts there is to offer. This means an unwarranted blowing up of wedding costs and a loss of the simplicity and community orientation that originally gave birth to Wazwan.
Amongst modern extravagances also counts bestowing copperware along with dresses on the bridegroom’s family. While copper utensils are a pricey buy as pieces for the finer appreciation of aesthetic beauty and cultural significance, inculcating it in bulk as part of Kashmiri wedding formality has transformed into becoming a burdensome social consideration. This importance becomes pretty hard on some families who try to live up to such elaborate rituals at the cost of extra financial stress. Kashmiri Wazwan in its hybrid existence personifies a beautiful pairing of tradition and modernity. Such is the context, ethos, and communalism that make up Kashmiri life in general. The modernization of it all through newer healthier choices, fusion cooking, and changed traditions marks this revolution in culinary traditions. But one must be reminded also of the excesses in form of food waste and too-fancy formalities that erode the cultural values Wazwan originally espouses. Being balanced with tradition and good practices, Kashmiri Wazwan will certainly exist for centuries as an epitomized part of regional heritage.
(The author hails from Boniyar, Baramulla and can be reached at [email protected])
