Jahangeer Ganaie
Pulwama, Mar 18: Despite a noticeable slowdown in sales this year so far, traditional bakers in Rajpora area of south Kashmir’s Pulwama district continue to remain optimistic that business will pick up as Eid approaches.
The region, located a few kilometres from Pulwama town, is widely known for its iconic delicacy—Sheermal—which continues to hold a special place in Kashmir’s festive culture.
Sheermal, a round, slightly thick flatbread with a distinct textured surface, is typically garnished with sesame seeds, giving it a unique flavour and appearance. It is commonly relished with traditional beverages like Sheer Chai (salt tea) and Kehwa, making it an indispensable part of celebrations and social gatherings across the Valley.
In Rajpora, the age-old tradition of baking Sheermal is very much alive. Local bakeries, popularly known as Kander Wan, have been working tirelessly to prepare for the festive rush. Around 30-40 bakers in the area are engaged in producing this brownish, sesame-coated bread, continuing a legacy that has been passed down through generations.
Javid Ahmad Sofi, a veteran baker, said that although the market response has been relatively dull this year so far, they are hopeful that demand will increase in the final days leading up to Eid. “Every year, we witness a surge in sales just before Eid. While things are slow at the moment, we are expecting a good turnout in the coming days,” Sofi said.
He added that Sheermal was once considered a luxury item, consumed only by affluent families. However, over time, it has become a common feature at almost every household’s festive spread, reflecting changing socio-economic conditions in the region.
Another baker, Mohamad Shaban, said that Rajpora’s Sheermal enjoys a reputation that extends far beyond Kashmir. “People living outside the Valley, and even abroad, place advance orders. Many visitors take it along as gifts for their friends and relatives,” he said, attributing this popularity to the consistent quality maintained by local bakers.
Sameer Ahmad, a baker who mostly deals with online delivery of this delicious Sheermal, said he is receiving a good number of orders online, which he sends outside the valley and even abroad.
He, however, said that the sales on the ground haven’t been as they used to be on festive occasions.
The bakers expressed hope that the pace will pick up on Eid.
Many other traders admit that overall sales have been lower this season compared to previous years—possibly due to economic challenges and reduced spending—they believe Eid will revive the market.
Traditionally, hundreds of customers from different districts visit Rajpora during the festive period, and each baker sells large quantities of Sheermal, making it a key source of livelihood.
Customers, too, remain loyal to the Rajpora speciality.
Muzamil Ahmad, a resident of Anantnag, said his family has followed a long-standing tradition of purchasing Sheermal from Rajpora. “The taste here is unmatched. We always buy in bulk and distribute it among relatives during Eid,” he said.
Apart from Eid, Sheermal holds cultural importance in various ceremonies such as weddings, engagements, and other religious events. It is prepared in two main varieties—sweet and salty—each paired with different traditional drinks, adding to its versatility and appeal.
For the people of Kashmir, Sheermal is not merely a food item but a symbol of heritage, celebration, and togetherness. Even in the face of slow business, the unwavering hope of Rajpora’s bakers reflects the enduring spirit of this cherished tradition. (KNO)
